One wine four styles

Date published: 08 March 2014


The Veneto region of North East Italy is home to one of Italy's best selling wines, Valpolicella - nestled between the stunning Lake Garda and the foothills of the Dolomites.

The name, loosely translated as 'Valley of Cellars', seemingly came about in the 12th century. It is Italy's second best selling wine after Chianti but somewhat over looked in this country.

The story of wine and the demise in popularity of wine is often brought about by the same attribute... success.

Many countries have fallen foul of being over successful. The methodology is simple, make a stunning wine that has been planted in the same region for hundreds, even thousands, of years. This land would have been found to be the best area, climate and aspect to extract the best from the grape. Then one day the rest of the world finds this little piece of heaven. Unfortunately there is only so much space to make these grapes so the only choice is to expand the vineyard into neighbouring sites.

The problem is that the original vineyard would typically be in the hilly regions with south exposure to the sun where the vines have to work hard to extract enough nutrients to make a flavour full grape. Once the grape is planted on flat, nutrient rich soil the vines become content and deliver flabby grapes full of moisture but with little taste.

Valpolicella has fallen foul to the very same problem. However, the Italian wine industry recognised this. Although it remains important to offer a quantity of wine it now identifies it's better region (original area) as 'Classico'.

This wine made up of three different grapes comes in many guises.

If you prefer a fresh easy drinking wine Valpolicella is a light, fruity wine best drunk young much like Beaujolais Nouveau.

On the other end of the spectrum is Amarone della Valpolicella.

A full bodied, intensely flavoured wine created by drying the grapes (passito) in large sheds then fermenting them giving a mouthful of dark fruits, chocolate and leather. A classic.

The hybrid, Valpolicella Ripasso (re-pass), takes the left over skins from the fermentation of the Amarone and adds them to the young Valpolicella, which makes for a very good value wine sitting in between both styles adding a delicious raisin note.

Using this same drying out method they also create the sweet red Recioto della Valpolicella, which is a must with blue cheese.

From light and fruity right the way through to sweet, Valpolicella is a wonderful wine.

Wine prices start at a very reasonable £5.50, but look out for 'Classico' or 'Superiore' which will be aged for at least a year in oak. Amarone can empty your pocket into the £20s.

Know what you are buying and you will be hooked for life.

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